Raising and Training a Mastiff Puppy

Prior to bringing your new puppy home you should have decided on a sleeping place. The kitchen is probably best. Cardboard boxes make a good bed to start with as it doesn’t matter what they do to them. Polystyrene beans or foam enclosed in TWO tough covers to avoid ingestion make good bedding. Don’t be tempted to buy wicker baskets until you are sure they are out of the chewing stage. Some never are!

Young puppies need a lot of sleep, the bed must be located somewhere they will not be disturbed - particularly by young children.

Your puppy will probably be unused to sleeping alone. However he will soon adjust to it if you ignore the grizzling or yelling for a few nights. Remember both comforting and scolding are forms of attention. A well wrapped stone hot water bottle and a loud ticking clock may help.

Mastiffs want to please although some are remarkably slow to learn what pleases and what does not. Never chastise a mastiff. They are very easily cowed. Tone of voice is quite sufficient.

House Training

This can be achieved quickly with concentrated effort on your part. Take the puppy to wherever you require him to “go” after each meal, on waking. After play or during long play and even after accidents following a word of admonishment. Then stay with him to lavish praise on completion. You must not be put off by inclement weather.

A bored puppy is a destructive puppy. Marrow bones and durable toys will relieve boredom. NOT small or soft balls or old rubber shoes. Make a practice of taking toys etc. away with the command DROP so that you will always be able to take things away without growl or worse.

All commands must be a single word preceded by the dogs name and as a command. "SPOT SIT", not "Spot will you please sit down". With each new command, a push or pull to indicate what is required will obviously be needed to start with.

If you have no experience of lead training enroll at a local training class as soon after completion of inoculations as possible. Classes are also good for socialising your puppy. Whether you go to classes or not, do not use a check chain on a youngster (under 6 months).

Inoculations

Be advised by your vet about inoculations

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Worming

Your puppy should have been wormed shortly before leaving the breeder. He will certainly need worming again at about 12 weeks. Be advised by your vet or the breeder as to what preparation to use and how often.

Mouthing

Many mastiffs like to show their affection by jumping up or by gripping your arm in their mouths. Jumping up should be discouraged by you going down to them. It is not very good for them to jump and may well not be good for you when they weigh 200 lbs or so. The arm gripping is very endearing but should also be discouraged, especially if you have children around.

Your own children will soon learn that by pressing on the gum behind the canine teeth they will release. However visiting children may complain of having been bitten. The grip from an adult mastiff will not break the skin unless the arm is snatched away in panic.

A final word about mastiffs and children. If your children have friends in to play and a squabble breaks out, your mastiff is likely to go to the aid of whom he sees as his charge.

No dog should be left unattended with young children.

Rearing A Puppy

When rearing a Mastiff puppy it is most important to remember that you are rearing one of the largest of all dogs.

Over the first year of their lives, they will gain as much weight in a day as a human baby does in three weeks. Needless to say this weight should be made up of muscle and bone not fat. It is unlikely that any two breeders feed their mastiffs in exactly the same way.

We all have our own theories based upon experience.

When you first bring your puppy home the most important piece of paper to have is the feeding instructions. This will be based on what the puppy has been fed since weaning. You should also receive enough of this food to cover meals for the first few days. You will have already organised a regular food supply. An eight week puppy will be on at least 4 meals per day. These can

be gradually reduced to three and then two by about 9 months of age.

A youngster will often cut out a meal themselves by refusing a meal at a particular time of day. NEVER reduce their meals to one per day. Mastiffs should be feed two meals per day as adults and throughout their lives.

You should feed "to eye" as the saying goes, as each dog will grow at a different rate to another. Some will be picky eaters and some will be greedy. Tests are available should your dog have an allergy to certain foods.

The veterinary colleges tell us that milk should not be fed after 8 weeks of age.

There are a vast amount of dry complete feeds available on the market, some highly recommended by breeders; some may have the advantage of being convenient and scientifically balanced, but should not be fed in conjunction with other foods. Not all mastiffs will eat them.

Fresh water must always be available

It is unusual to find a greedy mastiff puppy so if you work on the principal that a clean bowl earns an increase in food (often, less is more) next time round your puppy will not go hungry. Remove any food that has not been consumed within 10 minutes of being offered, Some will “try it on” in the hopes of being given something else. Then offer the same meal at the next meal time.

Feeding arrangements can be altered around to suit individual owners, within reason.

Adult Feeding

The appetites of older puppies and adults vary enormously. There is obviously a very large variation in their metabolisms. Anything between 1 kg meat/tripe mixture for a young adult bitch with an economical metabolism to 3.5 kg for a young adult male with an uneconomical metabolism. Plus of course biscuit in the 1/3 biscuit to 2/3 meat ratio.

Whatever the appetite it is always better to split the food into 2 well spaced meals.

Many mastiffs are very partial to fresh vegetables such as cabbage, broccoli, carrots, etc., uncooked or cooked. These can happily be given as an extra.

General Advice

The majority of mastiffs “DO” well on a mixture of tripe and other meat. Plain wholemeal biscuit is better than the more fancy varieties. Tinned dog meat is prohibitively expensive for large appetites, but a good thing to have in for emergencies.

If circumstances force a change of diet do make the change-over a gradual one to avoid stomach upsets.

Never feed tit-bits of chocolate, sweets or cake. They can’t tell you they have got a toothache. Yeast tablets are probably the kindest form of reward or tit-bit.
Virtually all available dog food these days requires little or no chewing. It is very important for the development of facial muscles that they have something to exercise their jaws and teeth.

Bloat

Or gastric torsion – a twisting of the stomach stopping the stomach gasses from escaping in the normal manner. A very nasty and frequently fatal complaint. Signs to be aware of are swelling behind the ribs, obvious discomfort and unproductive retching.

Although research is still continuing into the causes of this distressing condition, the best advice is not to feed your dog following exercise for a couple of hours, nor exercise following a meal, liquid should also be restricted after meals and exercise. Try to prevent your dog from bolting his food.

Members of the Mastiff Association are welcome to contact us for advice. Our committee have many years of experience and are happy to help in any way.

If you suspect a case of bloat, contact your vet immediately, NIGHT or DAY

There is a more explicit article under Health, above in the drop down bar.